Ahhh…Key West! Where the green of the Gulf meets the blue of the sea! “Cayo Hueso”, the “Southernmost City”, the “Conch Republic”, although Key West has been called many things, let me set the record straight. Key West isn’t “south Florida”, Key West is “south of normal”. Why is Key West considered a different place than the rest of Florida by locals and tourists alike? Because what you haven’t seen here, you may very
well see and/or experience there. After visiting Key West since the mid 1960’s and living there for 9 plus years one thing that Key West still has is the magic! Key West, the last island in a chain of islands, a.k.a. the Florida Keys, is located approximately 195 miles or 3 and ½ hours south of Ft. Lauderdale and just 90 miles from Cuba. At a mere 2x4 miles the island has much to offer for all walks of life.
Accomodations
When visiting Key West it’s always good to know someone who lives on island (or within close proximity). That way you can couch surf for free and save your money for the fun stuff. However, if you don’t know anyone locally then I recommend the following accommodations.
Guest houses are the way to go as they are usually very comparable and less in price as well as more secluded than local hotels. The best way to find a guest house is to contact the Key West Innkeepers. They have access to a number of guest houses and availability. If you’re the type to want something a little more accommodating and have children, the larger hotels would be a better choice. From my experience as an island concierge the Hyatt has the most to offer for families of the larger hotels. Other larger hotels include the Hilton, Pier House, Ocean Key House and on the other side of the island, the Wyndham Casa Marina. Finally, if you are the 4 diamond luxury resort type of person and want a truly special treat, then there is no other place like The Marquesa Hotel. Located on the corner of Simonton and Fleming Streets, The Marquesa is a small luxury hotel which has 27 rooms with two pools. Also the hotel has the Zagat top rated Café Marquesa. If you go, the lower rates apply May through the end of October. In addition I recommend the Poolside Standards or the posh Jr. Suites complete with king bed, sitting areas with private terraces in and around the pool and garden area. For more information visit them online.
Where to Eat
First things first and that would be breakfast. I recommend Ricky’s Blue Heaven at 615 Petronia Street. Just a note, get there early for breakfast as you will wait. I recommend the lobster Benedict (when in season) or pecan pancakes. Camille’s, a local’s favorite is another great place. Originally located on Duval they now own their own location on upper Simonton Street. Just look for the pink building across from First State Bank. Known for their “fun” food and exotic menus, Camille’s offers a wide variety. Both of these restaurants are a great choice for lunch and dinner as well.
For lunch and some of the freshest seafood to be found I suggest the ½ Shell Raw Bar located at the foot of Margaret Street on the historic seaport. This is the only place I eat fresh seafood in Key West. Their Grouper Po Boy’s are great! Also, I personally believe the ½ shell has the best key lime pie on island. And if you love seafood but your spouse can’t stand it, they also have one of the best burgers on the island. If seafood isn’t your dish but barbeque is, then The Meteor Smokehouse located on Southard Street has some of the best Memphis barbeque that I’ve found. I recommend the Memphis baby back ribs and a ½ order of their “island sized” onion rings. Yum! If you want something healthier, then their pulled pork Caesar salad will do just fine. If “people watching” is your thing then Fogarty’s on Duval Street is the place to do it. Located directly across from The Bull, on the corner of Caroline and Duval, Fogarty’s offers and extensive menu at reasonable prices. All of the above I would recommend for lunch and/or dinner as well.
Now it’s on to dinner. One of the best kept secrets is located on Southard just off of Duval Street called “The Café, A Mostly Vegetarian Place”. Offering a mostly vegetarian menu one my favorites is their homemade veggie burger with sweet potato fries and key lime curry sauce, something to experience first hand even if you are a meat lover. Other favorite places to wine and dine in Key West include the aforementioned Café Marquesa, located on the corner of Fleming and Simonton Streets (part of The Marquesa Hotel).This bistro style restaurant is oh so good and comes highly recommended. For seafood fine dining style with a great view of the historic seaport, I recommend A&B Lobster House. A&B has the best Oysters Roc to be found anywhere. An order of those with their Caesar salad served in an Assuage cheese shell makes for a perfectly lite dinner. On the other side of the island you will find Louie’s Backyard. Louie’s features terraced seating overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. The atmosphere at Louie’s makes this one of the most sought after dining experiences on island. In addition some other favorites are 915, Alice’s, Michaels, Cafe Med and Antonia’s. Although all of these are great placed to dine, you can only eat so much in a few days.
What to Do
Booking a snorkel trip out to the reef or the back country is highly recommended. If you can do without the frills of the larger catamarans, I suggest Captains Corner dive shop. Thier dive boat “Sea Eagle” get’s you out to the reef and visits two locations to snorkel. Captains Corner also offers the most affordable “resort course” on the island. For $100 you can learn the basics of diving and be out to the reef before noon. If sailing to the reef with music and ice cold libations beer (afterwards) is your thing, then the “Floridays” is the way to go, . This 60ft. sailing vessel is the perfect boat to get away from it all on. With a capacity of approximately 22 people, enjoy a leisurely sail out to the reef and back. Although a bit more costly than other means of transportation out to the reef, it’s much better than being on a catamaran with 100 other people that you hardly know.
Another great way to get out on the water is with Danger Charters. Danger offers a combination snorkel/kayak trip to the Florida Keys National Wildlife Sanctuary, aka the “back country”. Out of all the trips that I have been on this is one of my favorites. With one of the most attentive crews Danger at 60’ LOA and Dangers’ Prize at 65’ LOA offer either a ½ day or full day trip. In addition, their Wind and Wine Sunset sail is the best evening trip on island…or in this case, off island.
Finally, the one “off island” trip I would recommend is to the Dry Tortugas and Ft. Jefferson National Park. Located 70 miles west of Key West there are two ways to get there. By boat I recommend the Yankee Freedom. A large catamaran with air conditioning which offers breakfast, lunch and snorkel gear all included in the price of your ticket. Although the boat cost less, Seaplanes of Key West are not that much more and you’re there in 45 minutes instead of 2 hours and 45 minutes. Also the trip via seaplane affords the opportunity to spend the rest of your day in Key West and not on your way back. Regardless of how you arrive, Ft. Jefferson is truly a site to see. Bring your snorkeling gear or use gear provided. First snorkel the mote wall surrounding Ft. Jefferson and be sure to check out the pilings on either side. Rarely explored by visitors, I’ve seen green sea turtles in and around the pilings. After spending time in the water enjoy your lunch and then relax on the beach. Before leaving be sure explore the historic civil war fort. Either way, this trip is well worth the expense and if you have the time, take it.
A Day at the Beach
If you’re not out on the water or in a bar then a day at the beach may be just the thing. Although Key West is not known for it’s beaches, Fort Zachary Taylor State Park has the best swimming beach on the island (when the wind is out of the north) Be sure to bring your snorkel gear. Just 40 minutes north of Key West is Bahia Honda State Park. Bahia Honda’s Sandspur beach was rated the best beach in the Continental US by Conde Nast Traveler. For more info visit their website.
Exploring Key West
If the beach isn’t for you then are plenty of other sites to keep you occupied such as the the Ernest Hemmingway Home and Museum, The Key West Butterfly Conservatorium, The Mel Fisher Maritime Museum, The Southernmost Point in the United States, The Harry S Truman Little White House and the Key West Lighthouse. In addition, the best way to get a quick overview of the island is the Conch Tour Train or the Old Town Trolley. Last but not least, the must see and do is Mallory Square for one of Key West’s world famous sunsets. If the crowd at Mallory Square is not your thing you can always catch a peaceful sunset at Fort Zachary Taylor State Park or at The Top located at the Crown Plaza La Concha while listening to acoustic music.
Night Life
Lower Duval Street is the Mecca for door to door entertainment in Key West. Bar’s like the Hogs’ Breath Saloon, Capt. Tony’s Saloon, Sloppy Joe’s, The Bull & Whistle Complex, and Irish Kevin’s just to name a few, can keep the party going for hours on end. However, it’s not the only place to find great live music while visiting. The Schooner Wharf on the historic seaport offers live entertainment in the afternoon and evenings. Vergilio’s on Applerouth Lane offers a variety of music throughout the week including jazz. And last but not least and voted one of the best bars in America as well as the most eclectic places to visit on island is the Green Parrot. This open air bar features some of the best acts touring throughout the south.
So, now that you have the info on where to stay, what to eat and what to do, put in your leave slip and take three to four days to do it all in. Not only does this afford one the opportunity to become part of the magic known as Key West, it all can’t possibly be done in one weekend.